Installation in a restricted space in a trail liner

This is already the second composting toilet that Bernhard Stroop from www.stroop-voyage.de has installed. Three years ago, he first chose the stand-alone model and installed it in his trailer. The functionality convinced him so much that he now decided to build a built-in model.

Bernhard provided me with his complete installation instructions for the dry composting toilet, which I have summarised for you here:

Since I don't have much space between the back wall and the washbasin, I made sure to install a toilet that was as shallow as possible.
Since the Kildwick company from the UK no longer exists, I found a company that still sells the components and a self-assembly kit. I still ordered in England.
In the meantime I have also found a German distributor of the parts. You save the postage of 30 pounds. It is the company www.meinetrenntoilette.de.

Solids container (no longer available)
Capacity: 23L | Dimensions: 30 cm x 29 cm x 28.5 cm
Note: Unfortunately no longer available
Alternative click here

Urine container
Capacity: 10L | Dimensions: 14.5 cm (in the middle) x 33.5 cm x 32.5 mm
Remark: Unfortunately currently out of stock
Alternative click here

Required materials and costs

The square bucket and the half-round urine canister give me a calculated depth of 45 cm and a width of 34 cm. So I ordered the self-assembly kit for 249 pounds, which was delivered within 10 days. Converted, I paid €310 including shipping.

Now it was time to measure and try things out, which I did with cardboard models.
The result was the following shopping list:

• 2 coated chipboards (shelf board, as the edges are already finished) of 30 and 50 cm width, which I cut to 30 × 46 cm and 36 × 46 cm at home.
• Plastic board white, PVC, 5 mm, 50 × 50 cm which I cut to 46 × 47 cm and bent under heat.
• Plastic angle white, 2 × 2 cm x 1 m
• 2 wooden strips 1.5 × 3 cm

The installation - interior

I filled the Thedfort's hole in the partition with a wooden panel and only provided a hole for the exhaust air. Then I screwed the wooden slats to the short sides of the 30 × 47 cm panel, flush at the bottom and spaced at the top of the top panel.
At the back and on the partition wall, I screwed on more battens in the 47 cm thickness of the top panel. I also attached the plastic angle to the rear wall.
Then I screwed the 30 x 47 cm panel to the floor and the back wall. I also screwed a plastic angle to the front, which holds the plastic panel.
The bottom and middle slats only serve to hold the inserted wall. The hole in the floor was from the old ventilation and will be closed with flyscreen. It is used for supply of air.
The urine canister is secured with a tension belt or Velcro strip that is screwed on to the right and left. The upper cover plate rests on the two side and rear strips and is pushed under the plastic angle.

For the urine canister, I constructed a lid from a plastic storage can with a diameter of 9 cm, as I did not want to make the original lid leaky by drilling a hole. I cut a large hole in the lid of the can to fit the inlet spout and drilled 5 holes in the bottom (be careful when drilling, plastic breaks easily). Without this construction, the liquid in the canister spills over. There is no replacement lid. (Note: In the meantime, replacements are available in the shop).

Here, the upper cut-to-size panel is placed on top. The two screws are used to hold the toilet seat. There is a recess on the front right and left into which the plastic plate is inserted.

The urine separator is then placed under the cut-to-size chipboard. It covers the whole board and the toilet seat lies completely on top.
The material is easy to cut and sand with multi-tools. This composting toilet I built is designed so that all parts can be removed and cleaned separately.

The installation - Visible area